Take a large sheet of pattern paper and mark point A near the top left corner and make sure that there is enough space around the starting point for adding allowance later. From point A, draw a vertical line down and mark the full length ( HSP to waist) on that same line. Label the endpoint as point B. This line will serve as both the CENTRE FRONT seam of the block and the grainline for the front pattern piece.
Measure the center front measurement from point B on this line upwards and mark this point as C. This will give AC as front neck depth.
Square out a perpendicular line from point A towards the right side and mark half of full shoulder measurement on this line. Increase ¼ inches as ease in this measurement and label this as point D.
Square down 1 ½ inch from point D for shoulder drop and mark this point as E. Measure the shoulder slope measurement diagonally from point E on line AD and mark this point as F. This will give AF as neck width.
Square down a perpendicular line of ¼ inches from point F and point C and join both these lines with a curve using a french curve to complete the neckline.
Divide the full length into half and mark a point using this measurement on line AB and label this point as G. Square out a line from this point as a chest line and measure and mark 1/4th of full chest circumference on this line. Add ½ inch ease to this measurement and label this point as H.
Mark a point on half of CG as point I and square out a line from the given point as across chest line. Measure and mark half of across chest measurement on the line and label the point J. Join the point E, J and H using a french curve drawing a smooth curve for the armhole.
Square out a line of 2 ½ inches from point B for dart placement and label the point as K. Measure side seam length down from point H and mark it as point L. Join KL as a slanted line.
Mark a point M, 1 ½ inches from point K on line KL as the dart intake. Mark half of the dart intake as point N and draw a straight line of 4 inches upwards and mark the point as O as the dart end point. Join the points K and M with point O to complete the dart.
On line KL marks the remaining waist measurement after subtracting the initial dart placement measurement that is 2 ½ inches from 1/4th of total waist circumference and label this point as point P. Join the points H and P completing the side seam line.
This was a step-by-step guide to basic bodice pattern drafting methods.
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