Prepare the Subject:
Ask the person to stand straight with their arm slightly bent. If measuring on a dress form, adjust the arm slightly.
Ensure the measuring tape is flexible and the person is in a relaxed state.
Step 1: Start at the Shoulder Point:
Locate the shoulder seam or the point where the shoulder meets the top of the arm.
Place the measuring tape at this point as the starting position.
Step 2: Measure Along the Bicep:
Gently extend the tape down the bicep, making sure it follows the natural curve of the arm.
Stop at the bicep to record the point.
Step 3: Measure to the Wrist:
Continue the tape down to the wrist bone, which is the endpoint for sleeve length.
Record the final measurement at this point.
Step 4: Double-Check:
Ensure the tape remained straight along the arm and was not twisted or too tight. Adjust if necessary.
This process can be applied for various sleeve types, including long sleeves, short sleeves, and ¾ length sleeves.
Drafting of sleeve pattern :
Here is a brief guide on how to draft a basic sleeve pattern:
Measure the Arm:
Take accurate measurements for the armhole, bicep, elbow, and wrist circumferences, along with the sleeve length as mentioned above.
Draw a Vertical Line:
On your pattern paper, draw a vertical line from the top to the bottom. This will be your sleeve length (shoulder to wrist) depending upon your desired sleeve length.
Draw the Bicep Line:
At the top of the vertical line, draw a horizontal line for the bicep width (1/2 the bicep circumference + ease). This line should be perpendicular to the vertical line.
Mark the Sleeve Crown:
Divide the armhole circumference by 2 and mark this length on the bicep line. Add ease to ensure comfortable movement.
Shape the Sleeve Crown:
From the center of the bicep line, curve up to create the sleeve cap. The height of the cap (usually 1/3 of the armhole circumference) helps determine the sleeve fit. Use a French curve for accuracy.
Taper the Sleeve:
From the bicep line, taper down to the elbow and wrist, following the circumference measurements for these areas. The lines should be smooth and slightly curved to follow the arm shape.
Add Seam Allowances:
Add seam allowances around the edges (typically 0.5 on crown and 1 inch) and hem allowance at the bottom.
Cut Out the Pattern:
Once the draft is complete, cut the sleeve pattern along the marked lines.
This creates a basic sleeve pattern that can be adjusted for different styles or sleeve types.
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