How to Make a Pakistani Anarkali from Scratch: Step-by-Step + Tips & Hacks

gaurisawhney55
Sep 24
5 min read

A classic Pakistani Anarkali is all about a well-fitted bodice and a dramatic, flowing skirt. This guide takes you from measuring to the final embellishment. easy language, practical steps, and sewing hacks so your first (or fifteenth) Anarkali looks pro.

Quick overview

Skill level: Beginner → Intermediate (you can simplify with fewer panels or use a ready bodice block)
Time: 1–3 days (depends on embellishment)
Result: Floor- or calf-length Anarkali with fitted bodice, flared skirt, lined finish

Materials & tools

Fabric (main): 4–6.5 m (see fabric amount section). Use chiffon, georgette, silk, crepe, cotton silk, or heavy silk for structure.
Lining: 2–3 m lightweight cotton or satin (if required).
Interfacing/fusible: for neckline and placket.
Matching thread, hand needle, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure, tailor’s chalk.
Zipper (invisible or regular) 12–18" / 30–45 cm or hook-and-eye for back.
Optional: lace/gota, sequins, beads, bias for finish.
Tools/hacks: walking foot for slippery fabric, twin-needle for hem, safety pin for gathering, fusible web for quick trims.

Measurements to take (write them down)

Bust (B) — around fullest bust.
Waist (W) — natural waist.
Hip (H) — around fullest hip.
Shoulder width (S) — from shoulder tip to shoulder tip across back.
Neck to waist (NW) — center front from base of neck to waist.
Shoulder to desired hem (L) — from shoulder (where you want the gown to start) to hem (ankle/floor).
Armhole depth / Sleeve length (if making sleeves) — standard formula: armhole depth ≈ (Bust ÷ 4) + 2 cm (or use a fitted top as reference).

How much fabric? (practical guide)

If fabric width ≈ 150 cm (58"): 3.5–4.5 m usually enough for a floor-length Anarkali with moderate fullness.
If fabric width ≈ 110–115 cm (44"): 4.5–6.5 m for moderate to very full flares.
Lining: about 2–3 m depending on width and skirt fullness.

Factors: skirt fullness (see fullness multiplier below), pattern matching (prints), and whether you cut skirt on the bias or as panels.

Fullness planning — decide the look

Moderate flare: 2–2.5× waist measurement.
Dramatic / ballroom full: 3–4× waist measurement.

Example calculation (digit-by-digit):

Waist = 34 inches. Fullness multiplier chosen = 3. Panels = 4.
1. Multiply waist by fullness: 34 × 3 = 102 inches.
2. Divide by panels: 102 ÷ 4 = 25.5 inches per panel. So each panel should be 25.5" wide (plus seam allowance). (Convert: 25.5 × 2.54 = 64.77 cm per panel.)

Two common skirt methods

Panel skirt (easier): cut 4–8 vertical panels or godets and join — predictable fabric usage and easier to sew.
Circular/gored skirt (flowy): cut half or full circle — very dramatic but needs wide fabric and careful cutting.

Step-by-step construction

1) Draft the bodice

Use your basic bodice block or trace a well-fitting kurta bodice. Add 1.5 cm seam allowance around.
Mark neckline style (round, V, sweetheart), shoulder slope, armhole shaping, and darts/princess seams if desired.
Tip: For a classic Anarkali, use princess seams from shoulder to waist — they give a smooth, contoured look.

2) Cut the bodice (main + lining)

Lay fabric folded (right sides together) and carefully place the pattern. Cut main bodice pieces and the lining pieces.
Clip notches and mark darts with tailor’s chalk.
Hack: Use lightweight cotton as lining for breathable Anarkali — it gives shape and prevents sheer fabric clinging.

3) Prepare the skirt panels

Calculate panel width from fullness plan (example above).
Cut panels adding 1.5 cm seam allowance on each vertical seam and 4 cm hem allowance at bottom.
If using circular skirt, calculate radius using skirt length, or drape on mannequin.

4) Sew bodice

Stitch darts/princess seams. Press seams open.
Stay-stitch neckline to prevent stretching.
Attach lining to bodice: sew shoulders (main + lining), turn right side out at neckline, understitch the lining to keep it flat.
Tip: Use fusible interfacing on neckline/back placket for crispness.

5) Assemble sleeves (if any)

Sew sleeve seam, ease into armhole. Use small gathering stitches at sleeve cap if needed.
Attach sleeve to bodice from the right side; check fit.

6) Join skirt panels

Sew panels together along vertical seams. Press seams open.
If doing godets, insert them before finishing side seams.
Finish top edge of skirt with a narrow stay (zigzag or overlock).

7) Attach skirt to bodice

With right sides together, pin skirt to bodice waistline, distributing gathers evenly. Use safety pin gathering hack or machine-gather: two long basting stitches, pull threads to fit.
Sew at 1.5 cm seam allowance. Finish seam with serger or zigzag.

8) Add closure

Install invisible zipper at center back or side seam. For heavy embellishment, a back zipper is best.
Add a small hook-and-eye at the top.

9) Hem & finish

Press hem; for flowy fabrics, use a rolled hem or baby hem (machine twin-needle works well).
Topstitch decorative border or attach lace/gota to cover hem seam.
Give a final press with a steam iron using a pressing cloth for delicate fabrics.

Tips & Hacks (save time & get a polished look)

Use a mock-up (muslin) if you’re unsure about fit a quick toile saves costly mistakes on silk.
Walking foot for slippery fabrics prevents layers from shifting.
Fusible stay tape along center back seam or zipper prevents stretching and puckers.
Gather evenly: baste twice (two parallel long stitches) and pull both threads evenly, then tack in sections before final sewing.
Hem trick for chiffon/georgette: use a narrow rolled hem on your serger or a hand-rolled hem for invisible finish.
Quick lining: use a thin cotton as lining and tack it to skirt at waist so it moves better; let the lining hem shorter by 1–2 cm to avoid peeking.
Edge finish without serger: use French seams for sheer fabric or bind raw edges with bias tape for a clean interior.
Stabilize neckline: under-stitch the lining so it doesn’t roll outward.
Embellishment shortcut: use pre-made embroidered lace trims along the front opening and hem instead of hand sewing motifs.
Pattern matching: always match repeats on center front/back first — then match across panels where possible.

Common problems & fixes

Gaps at bust: add an extra 0.5–1 cm to bust measurement or add small bust dart.
Skirt puckers at seam: press seams toward panel, reduce stitch length when gathering, or use more distribution pins.
Neckline puckering after attaching lining: understitch the lining and clip the neckline curve more closely (carefully).
Uneven hem on heavy skirts: hang skirt overnight with weights pinned to hem, then press.

Embellishment & styling ideas

Narrow gota lace around hem and sleeve cuff for classic look.
Sequin motifs clustered on bodice with plain skirt for balanced sparkle.
Contrast inner lining peeking through slits or godets for a modern twist.
Coordinate with a dupatta in a lighter fabric, edged with the same border as the hem.