Step-by-Step Sabyasachi Lehenga Tutorial | Learn Stitching & Pattern Sewing

gaurisawhney55
Sep 24
4 min read

Skill level: Beginner → Intermediate (basic stitching + simple pattern-drafting experience)

What you’ll learn: how to plan the pattern, cut panels, stitch the skirt and lining, attach waist finishing, and finish with clean hems and small embellishment hacks.

Quick overview

Choose fabric & lining; prewash/press.
Take accurate measurements (waist, hip, desired length).
Draft panel/gore patterns with your flare factor (how full you want the skirt).
Cut main fabric + lining + interfacing; add seam allowances.
Stitch panels, attach waistband and zipper/closure, finish hem and lining.
Add small Sabyasachi-style finishing touches (hand-stitched embellishments, scalloped hem).

Why this approach works?

Sabyasachi-style lehengas are known for luxurious fabric choices, rich fall, and carefully balanced flare. Video tutorial is already available on our youtube channel and here is a condensed visual video steps into a clear, written process so you can follow along while pausing and re-checking at your sewing machine.

Materials & tools

Fabric: velvet, silk, brocade, georgette, or heavy crepe (choose by fall & event).
Lining: cotton voile or satin for comfort and neat fall.
Interfacing for waistband (fusible).
Notions: matching thread, zipper (invisible or regular), hook-and-eye/latkan, bias tape (optional).
Tools: measuring tape, french curve, chalk/marker, scissors/rotary cutter, pins/clips, sewing machine, zipper foot, hand needle for finishing.

Measurements & choosing your flare

You need three size inputs:

Waist (W) — where the lehenga will sit.
Length (L) — from waist to desired hem.
Flare factor (F) — how full the hem will be (a multiplier: 2× to 4× common; Sabyasachi-style often leans 3× or more).

How to calculate an approximate hem circumference: Hem = Waist × Flare factor Example: Waist = 30" and F = 3 → Hem ≈ 30 × 3 = 90". Use this hem circumference to decide how many panels/gore you want (6, 8, 12, etc.). The more panels, the smoother the fall.

Step-by-step: Drafting the pattern

Decide number of panels (P). More panels = softer curve and smoother flare.
Common: 6–12 panels.
Panel hem width: PanelHem = Hem ÷ P.
(Example: if Hem = 90" and P = 6 → PanelHem = 15".)
Panel top width (at waist): calculate with ease/gathering; often much smaller than hem draft a trapezoid shape: top (waist segment) → hip line → hem.
Add seam allowance: 1 cm (⅜") internal seams, 1.5 cm (⅝") for hems where needed. Mark grainline and notches for alignment.

Pro tip: If you’re new to gored skirts, start with 6 panels. It’s simpler to sew and gives good Sabyasachi-inspired fullness without over-complication.

Cutting

Lay fabric on a flat surface, right sides together if cutting folded panels.
Place pattern pieces so that nap (for velvet) runs consistently; velvet nap must face the same direction per panel.
Cut lining the same shape but deduct about 1–1.5 cm from hem if you want the lining to sit slightly shorter.
Label each piece with chalk (Panel A, Panel B, etc.) and transfer notches and match points.

Fabric-care tip: Pre-wash lightweight fabrics that shrink. Do not wash raw silk or high-end velvet unless you know how — dry-clean if unsure.

Stitching the panels

Sew panels together: place two right sides together and stitch seam lines with the agreed seam allowance. Press seams open or toward heavier fabric side (careful with velvet press lightly from the wrong side or use a pressing cloth).
Stay-stitch waistline to prevent stretching on curved seams.
Attach side seams as per your layout until the skirt is a closed tube.

Tip for heavy or slippery fabrics: Use a walking foot or microtex needles; longer stitch length (2.5–3 mm) helps on heavy fabrics.

Waistband and closure

Create a sturdy waistband: cut waistband strip (height = desired waist facing + interfacing + seam allowance). Fuse interfacing for body.
Attach waistband to the skirt (right sides together), understitch if desired, then fold and top-stitch.
Install zipper or hook/eye + latkan closure as preferred. For a clean Sabyasachi look, use an invisible zipper or neatly hand-finished hook-closures with latkans.

Lining & finish

Sew lining panels exactly like fashion fabric; attach to waist, not to every seam join lining to waistband only to avoid bulk.
Hem finish: Hand-stitched slip hem (catch stitch) gives the most invisible finish. For heavy hems, use a small folded hem with hand-stitching.
Final pressing: Take care with velvet and sequins press from wrong side using a cloth.

Sabyasachi-style finishing touches & hacks

Scalloped Hem: Draft a small scallop pattern and hand-stitched scalloped border for a signature romantic edge.
Small hand-embroidery or zardosi trims near the hem or waistband add sparingly for that classic, luxurious look.
Weight at hem: Tiny weights or a narrow cotton tape sewn into hem can improve fall (hidden inside the hem).
Matching petticoat: Sew a cotton petticoat with a slightly smaller hem for structure and comfort.

Common Problems & Fixes

Skirt too flat/too little flare: increase flare factor; add extra gores or create godets.
Uneven hem after joining panels: baste the hem, hang the skirt by the waistband for 24 hours, then re-check and trim evenly.
Velvet seam marks: always press from the wrong side using a pressing cloth and use minimal pressure.

FAQ

Q: How much fabric do I need?

Fabric required depends on your flare factor, number of panels, fabric width and length. As a rule of thumb: moderate flare → 4–6 meters; full Sabyasachi-style flare → 6–9 meters. Measure your length plus seam/hem allowances and calculate based on panel layout.

Q: Which fabric is most Sabyasachi-like?

Rich silks, brocades, and velvet are staples for the brand’s bridal and heavy lehengas due to excellent body and luxe finish.